从化学博士到国际知名造型师,看这些男性美妆达人如何玩转淘宝内容生态

已有 725 人阅读此文 | 2019-11-01 22:40 | 来源: 刘传鹏博客 | 作者: 刘传鹏

在淘宝建立的这个内容生态王国中,有这样一群看似独特的内容创作者——男性美妆达人。

从学院派出身的国际一线造型师李铭泽,到极具风格的毒舌博主benny董子初;从最近因抨击LaMer虚假宣传而受到热议的大嘴博士,到被美妆事业耽误的段子手李奇潭。性别从来无法隔阂对美的追求,越来越多的男性美妆达人,以独特审美视角受到喜爱。

结缘:一场堵车和一只粉底液

从中戏艺术管理专业毕业后,李铭泽顺理成章做了艺人经纪,带着当时火极了的“超级女声”,往返各大城市赶通告。他看着艺人们做造型,深埋心底的艺术梦又出来蹦跶;况且疲于奔命的日子多了,身体劳累不说,灵魂似乎也没有地方歇脚。

北京很堵,逼迫人通过思考摆脱无聊。那天堵车两小时,李铭泽忽然想清楚了要改行,放弃作为经纪人的资源优势,周围朋友都说他疯了。他先在国内基础班学习三个月,随即飞去米兰的Fashion uptodate进修时尚化妆及发型设计。

从化学博士到国际知名造型师,看这些男性美妆达人如何玩转淘宝内容生态

李铭泽,淘宝搜索@李铭泽是小李哥

米兰时尚之都用一场一场秀来培养造型师。李铭泽参与了范思哲、Dsquared2等世界一线品牌时装发布会的化妆及发型工作,成为米兰最年轻的一线华人造型师。

不过他从没想过留在国外,“我长了中国胃,老家在贵州,无辣不欢”。两年米兰学习之旅结束,李铭泽在2008年初回国发展,过硬的专业能力与亲和的态度,让他成为圈内知名艺人及时尚杂志争相合作采访的对象。

从化学博士到国际知名造型师,看这些男性美妆达人如何玩转淘宝内容生态

测试产品酸碱度的李铭泽“小李哥”

人称美妆界毒舌贵妇的benny董子初”(又名本尼)则把他入坑美妆的起源称之为“罪恶源泉”。初中时,一支粉底液被朋友当做生日礼物送给本尼,一丝好奇注入兴趣,变得一发而不可收拾起来。十年前的美妆行业和传播环境可不比现在,学习途径有限,本尼只能自个儿琢磨。

从化学博士到国际知名造型师,看这些男性美妆达人如何玩转淘宝内容生态

benny董子初,淘宝搜索@benny董子初

2016年,本尼辞掉工作,拍摄上传了人生第一条美妆视频。视频里,他虽略显青涩,但犀利毒辣的风格收获了不少粉丝,迄今已在全网拥有200多万粉丝。

非议:男性美妆博主逃不掉的坎

本尼在微淘上的认证是知名美妆博主、美妆界毒舌贵妇,2018年3月入驻淘宝后,迅速积累了十万粉丝。在各渠道,他单条视频播放量达上百万。公众号长生祠的头条平均阅读数在两万左右。

数据耀眼,却不等于普遍认同。本尼时常遭受非议,“你到知乎豆瓣上随意查,都是我的故事。”他笑了笑,似乎不善倾诉,寥寥数句对答,带着孩子式的直接。

从化学博士到国际知名造型师,看这些男性美妆达人如何玩转淘宝内容生态

benny董子初微淘短视频推荐个人品牌CROXX

朋友眼中的本尼,是个可以炮轰外界一切事物,唯独把所有好留给他们的人;有的粉丝把本尼称作“笨尼”,觉得他表面毒舌,内心温柔,还有些笨笨的,会认真看完他的分享,偶尔种草。

大嘴博士也常被diss,即便身顶化学博士的光环。大嘴博士本名郝宇,香港大学有机化学博士,毕业后先在复旦大学化学系担任讲师,一年后加入欧莱雅中国研发中心,担任研发工程师。

从化学博士到国际知名造型师,看这些男性美妆达人如何玩转淘宝内容生态

大嘴博士郝宇,淘宝搜索@大嘴博士

谁也没想到,2017年,四十岁的大嘴博士从欧莱雅离职,开始做美妆科普达人,“我想要人生道路上有些新的挑战,做些不一样的事。”

在欧莱雅工作期间,大嘴博士和他的团队通过一场科学调研发现,50%的中国女性都存在着皮肤问题。然而市场上不科学的护肤理念、虚假的护肤品宣传,都让女性的肌肤恶化。

美妆护肤行业的存在,本是为了带给女性美,如今不仅没有创造美,反而变成伤害人的存在。大嘴博士想要成为能够科普专业知识的人,向中国女性传达科学的美妆护肤理念。

起初,骂声一片,一些不同于普遍认知的知识让人们觉得他在胡说八道、博眼球,甚至攻击他“又老又丑还在当美妆达人”。

在美妆行业,如果做不到对于负面评论举重若轻,日子会很难过。这些称得上是恶毒的评论令大嘴博士沮丧,但他仍耐心做解释,坚持产出内容。很快,不少用户开始对科学派美妆“路转粉”。

从化学博士到国际知名造型师,看这些男性美妆达人如何玩转淘宝内容生态

大嘴博士深扒洁面仪

曝光LaMer虚假宣传后,大嘴博士再次成为漩涡中心,被指“想火”。他解释说,在欧莱雅工作时,是在为品牌工作,做这事不合适;而今成为独立科普人,服务的是粉丝,有必要告诉粉丝们该品牌阴阳官网刻意歧视。他也毫不避讳回应指责:“只有我火了,才会有更多的人关注我,我才能把科学知识和理念普及给更多人。”

内容创作者:台前一分钟背后十年功

没有一个创作者不希望自己的作品闻名于世影响他人,但每一条看上去光鲜亮丽的内容,背后的艰辛都不足为人所道。美妆达人们上传的每一条短视频,都要经过长时间拍摄制作,可能一句话就要录上二三十遍,直到效果恰到好处。要视频变得有梗,则更困难。

拍摄背后,大量试用更是达人的必备功课。2011年,李奇潭试用一款国产精华,使脸部长了几百颗痘痘,基本毁容。他的心情跌到谷底,在北京出租屋休息了一年,不怎么出门。

在这一年中,李奇潭窝在家里写博客,研究护肤品安全性,专业能力提升很大,同时对美妆形成自己的理解。第二年,在博客内容基础上开的美妆课火爆非常,月收入一下子翻了十几倍。

从化学博士到国际知名造型师,看这些男性美妆达人如何玩转淘宝内容生态

被美妆事业耽误的“段子手”李奇潭

但没有八年前一天化妆40人的积累,这些成绩可能都无从谈起。李奇潭至今记忆犹,2010年8月17号,还在读书的他和老师一起到了北京,接化妆的活儿,边工作边提升,直到寒假结束。年底的年会化妆业务爆棚,最多的一天化了40多个人,晚上回家后感觉身体都不是自己的。

寒假回来后,培训老师对他说:“你现在的技术已经可以出去接800块钱的妆了。”李奇潭一个人跑到厕所哭了一下午。

如今在淘宝上做内容,李铭泽不一味推荐高端产品,也从平价产品中进行筛选。“一分钱一分货,平价产品可能达不到高端产品同等效果,但还是能够找到各个价位中相对优质的产品做推荐。”

至于在淘宝上做内容的优势,本尼认为,淘内达人数量还未到达高密度,优质内容更容易为人所见。而且粉丝们看完推荐,一心动就直奔宝贝页面,省去来回对比。对此,他向来有信心,在淘榜单第37期短视频美妆达人榜上,本尼排名第六。

粉丝与达人之间,是一种陪伴

粉丝与达人之间的关系,是一种陪伴。陪伴代表着互相花费了时间,存下记忆,即使哪天有一方离开,也有曾经能够回忆。

李奇潭记性特好,开微博之初一起走来的粉丝,只要不改名字不换头像,他都记得。粉丝们陪伴他从“犀利毒蛇小钢炮”,成长为更具包容心的人。

通过社交平台和美妆课程,李奇潭结识不少优秀女性,带着各色灵魂,但同样有趣。

曾有位女生,生育好几胎都不顺利,给李奇潭发过满是妊娠纹的肚皮照片。后来李奇潭健身,她也跟着一起坚持,身体恢复极好。女生感谢李奇潭,殊不知李奇潭更是感动得一塌糊涂,现在两人是非常好的朋友。这么多年,李奇潭带给别人一些东西的同时,也收获很多。

从化学博士到国际知名造型师,看这些男性美妆达人如何玩转淘宝内容生态

工作中的李奇潭,淘宝搜索@李奇潭本人

未来:在淘宝用心经营个人品牌

在米兰学造型时,李铭泽没有想到国内媒体行业的变化迅猛如斯。主持美妆节目、与一线时尚杂志合作,曾是传统媒体人的李铭泽,经历过自媒体冲击,深感在业内保持一定影响力得玩命尝试新东西。对此,他痛并快乐着,为取得的成绩,为成绩下的压力。

本尼则常思索未来的不确定性,他的焦虑也很坦然,害怕有一天会过气。解决方式是用心经营个人品牌,打造口碑产品,那么他热爱的美妆事业就能一直延续下去。

同李铭泽一样,李奇潭对于此刻的状态是满意的。刚来北京的时,他没想过会有现在的生活,最大的梦想是摆脱公共交通。李奇潭没有大梦想,但有一个个小目标,他当下思考的,在于之后产出什么内容,让自己和粉丝共同成长。

李铭泽与李奇潭老师签约了同一家公司——时尚星(北京)文化传媒有限公司,业内知名的红人经纪公司。去年,时尚星与淘宝达成合作,预计今年年底共将有30多位达人入驻,包括80%的千咖级达人和20%等待孵化的萌新,领域从短视频扩展到图文推荐。

时尚星首席运营官孙潇在这个行业浸淫多年,自门户类网站兴起红人经济时即踏入此行。她表示,淘宝内容正符合用户逐渐养成的新消费习惯——购物前看推荐分享,且有固定信赖者。

达人们讲述着各自的故事,无一例外都敬业暖心。看似简单的分享背后,是可能“烂脸”的试用、海量吸收美妆知识与无数次重复的拍摄。如今达人们更是淘宝内容生态成员,以优质内容为消费者提供所需信息。如果有缘,或许还能成就一段“陪伴”。

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  • 广东羊城技工学校 2019-11-07 11:06:40 回复

    博主的网站还是很不错的,不过更新要有节奏。还有就是博主,我建议你,网站的界面可以适当修整一下,例如,块的边框可以去掉,这样整站看起来才不会花,才会大气。今天看了你一篇文章解决了一些问题,谢谢。

刘传鹏博客|专注分享互联网商业模式和网站运营推广策略的博客